Widowed farmers cram the tablenear the peanut butter pies,but I prefer the back boothbeneath a pike framed with flowers.Under a coffee cup’s “Start your daywith Jesus,” I find Topeka Seed & Stove.Once, when it was crowded,we ate in the kitchen where an Amishcook beats batter while flipping eggsand watching toast. Annie doesn’t bringus menus. She knows the girls and Iwill order pancakes with cinnamon butterfaces. When my sisters visit, they say,“Let’s go someplace with atmosphere.”They mean a chain near the interstatewhere they decorate with movie starsand license plates, where the boothsare so tall, you can’t see your neighbors.
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